July 3 – Monday

Dogs all came to visit as soon as they heard me stirring. All three tried to get on my yoga mat at the same time and compete for my attention. Big one shed fur all over, then left for a bit, but all returned while I sat on the bench and made, then ate my breakfast. Little one has become very brave and comes around now all on his own without mama Maya.

Stopped at another larger hardware store on my way into town – also do not carry my kind of fuel canister. They had some stoves of the same brand, but wouldn’t work for me. Oh well, Colin will be here in 2 days so I’ll be able to cook again. I miss my hot tea while I do yoga, but it’s a sacrifice I must make – ha ha.

Had just crossed the only traffic light in town when I noticed a large group of folks standing on one side of the road just ahead, and some more on the other side in front of a building – also large bunches of flowers. Figured they were getting ready for a funeral, so took an alternate route to the cafe. A short while later a policeman was stopping traffic on the small side road nearby, and a hearse covered with flowers and followed by the folks came up right past the cafe. There was a prayer playing on a speaker in the car, and all of the followers repeated it together as they walked to the church (that is right behind the fountain that is about 25 feet away from the cafe).

Speaking of the church – they don’t have mosques here like they did in Bosnia and Herzegovina so there’s no wailing from the minaret five times a day, but the church by the fountain rings its bells twice for every hour – 10 rings at 10:00, then another 10 at three minutes past (just in case you missed the first 10?). Also one ring on the half-hour.
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Rode a tiny bit west then north from town towards Garzigliana and Osasco – first part was on very quiet roads, even turned to dirt/rocks, but then met a busier road so I turned back.
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Wanted to get to a store before mid-day closing at 12:30. Stocked up on a bit more food then went back to camp and coloured my mop-top purple again – got to be ready for the Tour! No frilly tutu, but the hair will be there.
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Made my lunch and was just about to start eating when I saw baby dog Preet trotting along with something in his mouth – he was about to make off with my deck of cards! Retrieved the cards, and ate my lunch, then went next door to the restaurant for tea – but they’re closed on Monday’s – rats! The lady inside understood what I asked for, and I understood her telling me they were closed today but would be open tomorrow. No wi-fi anywhere close so rode back into town to the cafe.

The church bell is having a bit of a problem – it’s 4:06 and it’s ringing and ringing – seems stuck upside down at times, and then starts ringing again. And it’s not in tune. Six minutes of clanging and clanging but finally peace – at least until 4:30 then we’ll see.

Facetimed Dom, then left for ‘home’. Stopped at a store to get a bit of wine – asked for ‘rosso vino – local’ and instead of showing me a bottle she showed me two big metal vats – one ‘dolce’ and one ‘secco’ – chose the latter (dry). She indicated that if I had a bottle she would just fill it for me, so I went out to my bike and grabbed my metal water bottle. She weighed it, then gave it a squirt from a vat – not full yet, so another small squirt – 1 euro!

Rode home for dinner – all doggies joined me around my mat. Little ones ate more cheese – big old guy was content to lay nearby. Baby Preet let me pick him up and hold him, then he cuddled contentedly next to my leg – he’s just so sweet!

I’m sure this place is closed for the summer, but the folks are hardly ever here and when they are it never seems like the appropriate moment to converse with them. I think they are just letting me stay here because I arrived in June and they won’t ask me to leave. I hope they’ll let Colin stay on Wednesday if he wants to when he arrives.

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